Why Bother With a Local Guide?

Our recent trip to Eastern and Central Europe had me thinking about the advantages of spending money on local guides during our travels.

It seems when we are trying to travel on a budget (and aren't most of us!) we look for ways to economize. In general when Jeff and I travel we prefer small groups or traveling independently. One of the things we won't economize on is good local (and often private) guiding in the destinations where we travel.  One of the things we've learned over the years is that a good local guide is invaluable and usually worth every penny.

Here is why:

1) Some places are not easy to navigate on your own; the language is unfamiliar and it could be easy to get lost in areas that may not be safe for tourists.  Having a local guide ensured we could see the places we wanted to and stay safe while we did it.  This was the case for us in Ecuador at the tourist craft market in Otavalo.  There is great market for the locals just  a few blocks away from the tourist markets.  Our guide offered to take us there.  Unfortunately, when we visited, there were also a couple of never do wells looking for tourists wandering in that area. We were cased for a moment by a pair of them who noticed us, they reversed direction and started following us.  It only took a meaningful look from our guide, Robbie, for them to move on.

With our local guide in Otavalo, we were able to go to the local market safely

With our local guide in Otavalo, we were able to go to the local market safely

Having a local guide helps you stay safely on the tourist path, but also allows you to get OFF the tourist path safely.  If you want to venture into a place where locals live and work and stay safe and have someone who can ease the transition between local and tourist, a local guide can do that.

We had this experience in Istanbul...we were able to stroll in a residential neighborhood and witness an impromptu market for sheep being sold for a national holiday.  Without our guide, we might not have felt safe in the neighborhood, and with our guide, we had the opportunity to take photos of this market because he could ask the people there if taking photographs would be ok.

Impromptu sheep market in Istanbul

Impromptu sheep market in Istanbul

2) Even in places that are "easy" to see and tour on your own, having a local guide adds context to what you are seeing...this was especially important on our most recent trip because so much of the history was recent history and we were touring with people who actually LIVED it. Hearing their thoughts and opinions created a far richer experience than just wandering around and reading about it out of a guide book.

An example of this was our local guide Magdi Pelech in Budapest. One of our interests was learning about life in a communist country, and Magdi had lived in Hungary through the 70's and 80's.  She had stories to share that made the seeing the "sights" far richer than if we had just been touring around using our guide book.  The picture below is what you would see if you visit the Rock Church on Gellert Hill. When we toured with Magdi, we learned that she never knew this church existed! During the Communist regime, the cross was removed, the monks were forced to leave and the entrance was cemented over (you can still see some of the cement around the entrance today) While most of us knew that religion was suppressed as part of communism, hearing about how easily it was literally erased from the consciousness of a local person was very interesting to learn!

Rock Church in Budapest

Rock Church in Budapest

3) We are not retired, time is precious, and we have little time to "get lost" and miss hours of sight seeing time.  Losing oneself in a place is a luxury professional travel writers may have and write poetically about in glossy travel magazines (while someone else is paying for their time and travel!) Most of us are on a shorter holiday with little time to spare.  It's fun for most of us to stumble onto a market or celebration and change touring plans (this happens to us all the time!) but time spent arguing over a transit map, or going in circles for an hour is not the same as whiling away an hour in a cafe, or ditching a tourist site to watch a festival parade.  I like to have a local guide who can maximize our touring time, including finding the perfect place to while away an hour with coffee!

Turkish coffee and tea

Turkish coffee and tea

4) If you want to participate in something unusual (like that festival parade!) or avoid a traffic jam up (due to a strike for instance), or avoid traveling to a closed-for-renovation museum, a local guide is your best bet. They know what is on, what to avoid and how to maximize the tour to your time and interests. For instance, Magdi knew there was a large horse race going on in the City Park on Sunday. While it might have been interesting, it would have impacted our ability to see the other sights in the City Park that day. By going the next day, we avoided the crowds and closures due to the local event. Or if we had decided to go to the local event, having a private guide would allow us to change our itinerary to accommodate that!

5) A local private guide can tailor your tour to your interests and to your pacing in a way that a group tour can't.  Jeff and I like to cover a lot ground, so we like to work with a private guide and not be beholden to bathroom breaks or bus loading for 20 or 50 people. Being a photographer, Jeff often looks for a guide too come out early or stay late when the light is good. If he wants to stop for a longer time to get a shot, the guide is happy to indulge us and we aren't holding up the group. This happened in Istanbul when Jeff wanted to get a shot of the sun setting over the Old Town from the Asian side, we arranged for our guide to stay out late with us to get his shot.

Sun sets on the Suleymaniye Mosque

Sun sets on the Suleymaniye Mosque

A good guide will also pace your tour for your group. When my sister in law needed a little break to sit in Budapest, Magdi would provide a safe, comfortable location to rest for a bit or for her to wait while the other 3 of us moved on to saw another sight nearby and then return for her later.

Taking a much needed break after a long touring day with Magdi Pelech in Budapest

Taking a much needed break after a long touring day with Magdi Pelech in Budapest

6) A certified guide often has professional credentials that allow them to skip the lines or use a special guiding entrance with their clients. We had several instances where our private local guides flashed their credential and went to the head of the line while other tourists had to wait.  It may not feel "fair" to our US sensibilities, but I feel like you do business as business is done in the places where I visit, and in many places having a credentialed guide saved us lots of time in lines!

7) Its not as much of a splurge as you think it might be!!  In many places excellent local guides can be found for $100 dollars a day or less.  In some bigger more expensive tourist areas you might pay $100 per person for a 1/2 day, but generally, it's well worth it to assure that your trip includes the the kinds of experiences you want and smooths the way to have them comfortably and safely!

 Tips for Finding Good Local Guides

Use a good destination specialist travel agent

Finding a great travel agent is whole other topic, but it's very important to find an agent who has been to the place you are going, and/or has local resources where they regularly refer clients. They also have to be willing to listen to YOU and what you want. It's not as easy to do as it seems, there are still a lot of generalist agents (whom I refer to as "let me book that for ya" travel agents- they sell what they sell, and usually only do what you could do yourself on line, and don't offer any expertise or advice about your itinerary and local guides to use.) My advice is don't book with an agent until you've had conversations about your destination with them.  If they don't know more than you can learn from a travel brochure, move on.  What you want to find is a travel agent with expertise and contacts for guiding in the destination you are visiting!  

  • Ask friends who have had great trips about their travel agent, I recommend mine (Travel Beyond) to everyone because I meet a lot of other tourists and they want to know how we managed to have the experiences we've arranged! 
  • Research the businesses of the destination experts on Trip Advisor whose advice you respect 
  • Look for Wendy Perrin's WOW list of destination specialists http://www.wendyperrin.com/wow-list/

Ask friends who have had great guides

Nothing made me happier than recommending Michael Kay's excellent Costa Rica Expeditions to friends traveling to Costa Rica for a 25th anniversary and hearing that they had an amazing al fresco surprise anniversary dinner planned for them by CRE. I knew I had had an excellent experience with them, and I knew they would have great experience too!

Read reviews and trip reports on travel review sites

Read reviews on Travel websites for your destination; take notes about guides mentioned who have consistently good reviews.

Book an Organized Small Group Tour

We've taken some smaller group tours that bundle lodging, travel and guiding.  The best of these include excellent local guiding, and the tour company does all the research to find them! Of course you still need to adapt to the needs and pace of a group, but generally, we've found that there is still a very high level of knowledge and quality in the guides.

Adventures By Disney provided excellent local guides for our small group of like minded travelers in the Galapagos and in Andean Highlands in Ecuador

Adventures By Disney provided excellent local guides for our small group of like minded travelers in the Galapagos and in Andean Highlands in Ecuador

On a really tight budget? Troll social media

There are options that may be short of being professional guides, and that's a risk- if you are paying, its always good to check that the guide has the credentials required by their destination.  Without them, you never know what you will get. But if you really can't pay for professional guiding at all you can at least have a "local" experience.

  • You can find friends of friends who live in your destination and might be willing to show you around.
  • Take advantage of "free walks" offered in some cities.
  • You can also use message boards and forums to find others traveling to the same destination on the same days to share the cost of a private local guide. It can be difficult to tailor these tours to your needs, but if there is a set itinerary and everyone agrees and pays directly to the guide, it can work well.  We made some very good real life friends when we chartered a sailboat with online "friends" we connected with on Cruise Critic.
Bonding on Calabaza in St Thomas during a squall with new friends we met "online" and shared a sailboat charter with. (I promise the sun was out for most of it!)

Bonding on Calabaza in St Thomas during a squall with new friends we met "online" and shared a sailboat charter with. (I promise the sun was out for most of it!)

I'd love to hear your ideas too!  Any tips to share for finding great guides?

To Market, To Market (the many markets of Istanbul)

Gate 1 entrance to the Grand Bazaar

Gate 1 entrance to the Grand Bazaar

Everyone who knows even a little about Istanbul knows about the markets. The most famous of these is the Grand Bazaar in the old city, but really all of Istanbul is a market. For centuries people have traveled here and traded, bringing goods from near and far to visitors from near and far. Today, Istanbul retains it's market place tradition, and holds proudly to the old ways. Not only do the original market halls and bazaars still operate, but nearly all of Istanbul is a chance to buy and sell. On the streets someone is always selling something; tourist booklets, chestnuts or mussels from a cart, a seat at a cafe. 

The Grand Bazaar is nearly always crowded with people from many places as well as locals from around the corner.

The Grand Bazaar is nearly always crowded with people from many places as well as locals from around the corner.

All that selling and all those people can be intimidating! I found it best to approach the markets with an idea in mind of what I might want. Then when vendors approached me, I could be clear about what I wanted and be clear with them about what I was not interested in. A smile and no thank you suffice for a shop owner beckoning me into a shop with wares that do not interest me. However, sometimes, for things I might want, I will engage with the salesman. They are friendly, even kidding, "Can I help you." And when you say "No thank you" they say "Can you help me by spending your money?" We all have a little laugh.

The key for me is to make it a friendly interaction. Salesmen have the "gift of gab", they are good with people and easy to connect with. I look at their goods, if they are for me, I might offer 1/2 of what they say is the price and negotiate from there (there is less bargaining on food and spices our guides tell us) If I get a fair price, I'll buy, if not I will leave. If I'm not interested in their goods, no matter how friendly and attentive they have been, I leave with a friendly thank you! I really enjoyed the markets and engaging with the salesmen, and I don't think I bought a single thing I didn't want! 

Gold shop

Gold shop

The Main Street of the Bazaar is filled with gold shops. I learned from our guide that many people give gold as gifts for life events such as children's birthdays or weddings. Some people also invest in gold jewelry rather than a stock market. Many families buy gold in the markets for these reasons. 

Detail of a carpet shop

Detail of a carpet shop

Lots of people think of Turkish carpets when they think of the Grand Bazaar. Most folks traveling don't have room in their carry ons for a carpet! But they will ship. Also, several salesmen and a fellow traveller told us that most shops can fold a small rug to fit in a checked suitcase. That means you'd have to either also buy a new suitcase, or dump your clothes in the Bosphorus! Of course, like all shopping, you really have to know your product and do your research before you buy to be sure you are getting what you think you are. 

My husband and I admired a beautiful silk rug, woven in Turkey. I knew from the get go, I was not in the market to buy a rug, but I enjoyed viewing the rug as an art piece and asking the salesmen a bit about it; how it was made, and where, how much it would cost. Of course after 10 minutes in his shop, we had to break his poor salesmens heart and tell him, no we would not buy his rug, no matter how beautiful, but that we appreciated his sharing it's beauty with us. As a former salesperson myself, I don't see it as wasting his time because I know the rule that you need 9 "no's" before you get a "yes!". So my "no" gets him one step closer to his goal! 

Beautiful tea trays with Arabic

Beautiful tea trays with Arabic

Our guide let us off at Gate 1 with plans to meet an hour later. My husband who has a great sense of direction promised to remember our turns and help us return. But of course we got turned around and soon, we couldn't find our way back to the Main Street (a wide boulevard inside lined with mostly gold shops) Luckily, all the salesmen speak excellent English and are very helpful. "Left, right, left" one told us and he was exactly right. In addition to excellent English, nearly every shop will price your goods in whatever currency you have in your pocket, and take credit cards. Though the best bargains happen when you offer cash!

Another major market is the Spice Market. This one is smaller than the Grand Bazaar, but similar in terms of customs. The only difference is there really is not bargaining for spices and foods (with lower margins) unless you are buying in bulk. The Spice Market is called the Egyptian Market by the locals because of course it was the marketplace for Egypt and other far eastern sellers to sell their spices to western traders and visitors. To me both markets had similar "tourist" items as well. 

Some of my purchases being weighed

Some of my purchases being weighed

If you decide to buy spices, you can buy the whole corn or clove and a mill to grind them yourself, or buy the whole spices ground already. You can also buy spices ground and mixed for easy additions to food. This is for lazy cooks like myself; I ended up with meatball spice and something fun called "mother in law chili", a super hot chili mix meant to discourage your MIL from visiting at dinner. Being partial to hot chili, we bought this one, as much for the fun name as for the hot taste!  All of these are vacumme packed so they sail through US, Euro and Canadian customs- however Aussies and Kiwis know they won't be able to take these back no matter how they are packaged. 

Whole cloves and peppercorns

Whole cloves and peppercorns

In addition to spices, there are nuts, dried fruits and teas as well as the famous Turkish Delight (a candy made from honey, starch, pistachio and fruit or chocolate) that is for sale everywhere! I have to admit, I wasn't "Turkish Delighted"- I generally like candies, but this didn't do it for me, but it's worth a try! 

Yours truly with my spice seller, but no Turkish Delight for me! 

Yours truly with my spice seller, but no Turkish Delight for me! 

A fun place to check out is the Pet Market to the left of the Spice Market. This is a fun place to people watch because the stuff sold; birds, pet food, plants, seeds, bulbs and and exotic pets like baby alligators, are not really appreciated by customs officers in too many places! However, there are also buckets of leaches for sale, so you could do a little blood letting in your hotel before you leave! Ok, so maybe not! But it's a great place to see locals shopping, but of course there are far fewer English speaking salespeople here. 

The local doves thought the pet market seed stalls are a great place to sample the wares.

The local doves thought the pet market seed stalls are a great place to sample the wares.

Did I mention food? Like most big cities, someone is selling food on nearly every corner, and even places where there is no corner at all! We enjoyed the famous kebap. There were two types; sis kebap, which is grilled chunks of meat, and doner kebap, which is huge stacks of meat seasoned and grilled on a vertical brazier, then shaved thinly with a knife (or in busy places with a power saw) and stuffed between bread or rolled up in a flat bread. It's a great, affordable street food (about 7 TL) and available almost everywhere. 

A cook prepares kebap at a stall

A cook prepares kebap at a stall

So you've got all these salesmen selling to locals and tourists, and then you've got salesmen selling to salesmen! Many shops have a sole propeitor, or the salesmen don't want to step out and miss a sale, so the tea man sells them tea!  They call to order on one of several hotlines into his tiny kiosk (with room only to stand next to his huge cappuccino  machine) and he makes their teas and coffees and has his helper deliver them to the salesmen in the markets.

Coffee and tea seller in his tiny kiosk 

Coffee and tea seller in his tiny kiosk 

delivering tea to the salesmen outside the spice market

delivering tea to the salesmen outside the spice market

So what else can you buy? Well, this weekend is Eid Al-Adha (day of sacrifice) Each family (or several together) buys a sheep and sacrifices it and then gives the meat to the poor.  During our wanderings through an ordinary neighborhood in the Old Town with our guide, we came a cross another interesting market. A temporary sheep market set up for the holiday!

A temporary sheep market set up in a vacant lot in a residential neighborhood

A temporary sheep market set up in a vacant lot in a residential neighborhood

The sheep were packed in a temporary pen set up in a vacant lot. The fellow in the suit jacket was the broker. The sheep had markings on them to indicate which farmer provided them, so the broker could keep track. Men from the neighborhood kept arriving and would choose their sheep. Two young boys would grab it by the horns and drag it to the van where they would deliver it to the yard of the family who bought it. It is quite a sacrifice too! On the day we were there, a ewe was 600 euro and a ram was 800! 

When we saw Istanbul from the air, it was clear this was a crossroads, a narrow spot where poeple move from one place to another. On the ground, seeing so many markets and salespeople showed us that this crossroads is the perfect place to sell ANYTHING!  

Istanbul - A Crossroad for Humanity

 

With our guide book, and a local Turkish beer, we are fortified to explore Istanbul! 

With our guide book, and a local Turkish beer, we are fortified to explore Istanbul! 

We arrived in Istanbul this morning. We've read our history and guide books and we know that Istanbul sits at a crossroads of Asia and Europe; a way station and meeting place for the 3 continents. Flying into Ataturk Havalimani Airport in Istanbul this is evident when you see from the air that Istanbul is a narrow peninsula surrounded by the Black Sea to the North (we had just sailed down the Danube, almost to the Black Sea on the AMAPrima) and Marmara Sea to the South, with the Bosphorus splitting the city into its Asian and European sides. If you want to travel by land- this is clearly the path of least resistance, but also a choke point!

A view of the Asian side of Istanbul with ferries and shipping traffic from our hotel room

A view of the Asian side of Istanbul with ferries and shipping traffic from our hotel room

Looking a large map, it's clear to see that the easiest way to go East to West or West to East by land is to go through Turkey and cross the Bosphorus.  This is how peoples moved for migration and trade routes since ancient times. Istanbul was a place where people pass through, but also where trade commences. My first impression is how clean, bright, well landscaped and just how huge, and very busy this city is. I'm also surprised by how many huge Turkish flags fly here. There is a lot of local pride.

Taksim Square; which is actually round with not one but 2 huge Turkish flags flying.

Taksim Square; which is actually round with not one but 2 huge Turkish flags flying.

I wasn't surprised to see that it is still a cross roads for humanity. People are here from every corner of the globe; women in burkas from the Mideast carrying Michael Kors bags, dreadlocked youthful European backpackers, a Chinese couple just off the train (who look like newlyweds and get suckered into the "shoe shine" scam right outside our cafe window. *see below for a description) middle aged Americans (that would be us) and 20 something girls in belly shirts with pierced navels. Even the waiter at the cafe can't sort our where everyone is from- he guesses that Jeff is from Australia. Jeff tells him "close" and then explained he was from Boston, USA. We all had a good laugh over that! 

Looking down Istiklal Street

Looking down Istiklal Street

But I was surprised at just huge this city is and and just how MANY people are here! At 3 PM on a Tuesday, Istiklal street, the main pedestrian shopping boulevard in the new part of the city, is teeming with so many people that it makes rush hour in my own city seem like a bank holiday. So many people, from so many places, so many stories. The saddest are the newest arrivals; tiny Syrain refugee children begging on the streets, singing in their little voices, hoping for people to notice them and give them some coins. Our guide tells us 500,000 have come to Istanbul recently. This is an amazing place to people watch, a fascinating display of global culture and commerce...and that's just within walkin distance of our hotel...over the next two days we will see far more of the city with our guide Meli. 

A crowded tram that runs the length of Istiklal Street

A crowded tram that runs the length of Istiklal Street

* Shoe Shine Scam

Our concierge here at the hotel sent us to his favorite spot for lunch, not an hour after landing (well ok, it was more than an hour because it tooks us an hour to cross town in our van because of the traffic- but let's say within a few hours) He walked us to the revolving door with only one warning "if you see a shoe shine boy and he drops his brush, just ignore it." We didn't have time to wonder about this before we had stepped 10 steps out of the hotel and a shoe shine boy passed us dropping a shoe brush as he passed. He expects naive tourists to say, "hey, you've dropped your brush!" and then they pounce with the hard sell to "shine your shoes" (the Chinese fellow had sneakers for heavens sake but once he picked up the brush, the tout was on him brushing his Addidas like they were Bruno Magli's.) Of course all this attention ends with the tout expecting a "tip". In the case of the poor couple we saw targeted; even his young wife came over realizing they had been had and decided to get a picture out of it, but another shoe shines tout started in her shoes! The best advice we got was "ignore them", which is exactly what we did when the brush fell at our feet. We sidestepped it and felt proud that just hours in, we were no longer newbies in this huge complex city.