Just Thinking Outloud: Public Transportation

With record snowfall in Boston, we expect to have public transit bail us out when driving and parking in the city gets challenging, but the MBTA's performance got me thinking about other transit systems around the world and why some of them do it better.

We've recently had record snowfall in Boston, over 8 feet have fallen in January and February. It appears we've absconded with all of the snow meant for Alaska and the Northwest this winter. And our public transit system has ground to a halt at times. 

Sure record snowfall creates sown unique challenges for any public transit system, but Switzerland gets snow and yet their public transit system runs like a fine Swiss watch (that is a hackneyed cliche, and yet, somehow, it works there)  I do not pretend to know the first thing about public transportation systems, but this got me thinking about all the places I've been, and wondering why some in places the public transit works beautifully, while in others, it works so poorly? 

In greater Boston, people love to complain about the MBTA (Mass Bay Transit Authority). They complain about rude behavior on the trains, the condition of the stations and the trains, as well as the schedules and on time performance.  And I have experienced all of these things using the MBTA. But my experience in other places is often quite different. 

The MBTA recently ran an ad campaign to encourage less boorish behavior of passengers. While traveling in Paris once when I was 6 months pregnant during the busy commuter times, not only was a seat made available on the Metro when I boarded, but the sea of humanity literally parted, and I was passed along hand to hand by the other mothers to it.  The only thing missing was the heavenly choir sound and down light shining on the seat.  I had never been treated so respectfully, pregnant or otherwise since.  

In Boston trains and stations are not particularly well maintained or clean, and I always attributed this to the fact the our system is one of the oldest in the world. But then I spent a weekend riding a system built 5 years earlier than the MBTA - in Budapest. The Budapest Metro was scrupulously clean, efficient, easy to use, even in a country where the language is notoriously hard to master. 

The Budapest Metro was built in 1896, more than 125 years later, it's still beautifully maintained, clean and easy to use.

The Budapest Metro was built in 1896, more than 125 years later, it's still beautifully maintained, clean and easy to use.

We took a trip to Washington DC with 2 small children, and were able to safely and easily hop off the plane with our roller bags, and surface at our hotel a 1/2 hour later. I wouldn't dare try to take the train to Logan airport from my own neighborhood, where the local newspaper recently named the line closest to my home the worst performer in the system. I'd be panicked I'd miss the flight!

After growing up in Boston where the stations are hard to find and navigate, it was a big surprise to arrive in our nations's capital and get around so easily on the Washington Metro.

After growing up in Boston where the stations are hard to find and navigate, it was a big surprise to arrive in our nations's capital and get around so easily on the Washington Metro.

Maybe the system in each place takes on the character of its location; in Paris the Metro is elegantly designed,  in Budapest it's clean and efficient, in Washington DC, a city filled with International guests and ambassadors, it's simple to use. Maybe in Boston our transit system has taken on the characteristics of Bostonians, we love to have something to complain about! For a long time, the Red Sox filled that need, (and still do every other year it seems) and the weather often does (especially this year!) so maybe we need a creaky, outdated, inefficient transit system to give us something to complain about!  
 

Boston has recently thrown its hat into the ring as a contender for the 2024 Olympics and the transit system is one of the areas that would have to improve. Many Bostonians are skeptical about running a a successful Olympics here and if you dig, even a little, it turns out most of the concern is about traffic and public transit woes. This winter only reinforced that! 
 

A ride on the Green Line in Boston.

A ride on the Green Line in Boston.

So with all the recent news about our transit woes in Boston I've been thinking hard about what makes some public transit systems great and why some fail to meet standards. And I've concluded (without any actual research, mind you) that public transit generally works well in places where everyone, from all walks of life, uses it. Maybe as the system gets worse, people of means decide to drive their own cars and pay for parking, and without those folks using the system, the public transit systems become the domain of the poorest, most powerless  people in a community, and they have no voice to make it better. As they say the "squeaky wheel get the grease" and clearly if you've ridden the MBTA, you know they have lots of real squeaky wheels, (it's ear splitting at times standing near the tracks!) but maybe not enough people invested in agitating about better service and proper investment. When people from every walk of life use a public transit system there are stake holders in every corner, some very powerful people, and they make their voices heard, so that pressure helps direct attention to the system and demands it be more efficient.  

Understandably, it's much easier to make an efficient national public transit system in a country the size of Hungary than a country the size of the US, but the city systems are pretty equitably sized and populated.  Also, I will grant that some totalitarian regimes have an advantage of unilaterally deciding where to invest resources, but it seems that most places where the trains run on time, everyone uses them, and where they don't, they are largely utilized by the people with few other choices. I can't even say which comes first, the system is poorly run, so people flee it, or it's inefficient so only people who have no choice, use it, it's probably some combination of both. All I know for sure is that I notice when traveling to other places where I can easily use the transit system, even as a guest who doesn't speak the language,  I find myself marveling "wow, I wish we had something like this in Boston!" 

Why Bother With a Local Guide?

Our recent trip to Eastern and Central Europe had me thinking about the advantages of spending money on local guides during our travels.

It seems when we are trying to travel on a budget (and aren't most of us!) we look for ways to economize. In general when Jeff and I travel we prefer small groups or traveling independently. One of the things we won't economize on is good local (and often private) guiding in the destinations where we travel.  One of the things we've learned over the years is that a good local guide is invaluable and usually worth every penny.

Here is why:

1) Some places are not easy to navigate on your own; the language is unfamiliar and it could be easy to get lost in areas that may not be safe for tourists.  Having a local guide ensured we could see the places we wanted to and stay safe while we did it.  This was the case for us in Ecuador at the tourist craft market in Otavalo.  There is great market for the locals just  a few blocks away from the tourist markets.  Our guide offered to take us there.  Unfortunately, when we visited, there were also a couple of never do wells looking for tourists wandering in that area. We were cased for a moment by a pair of them who noticed us, they reversed direction and started following us.  It only took a meaningful look from our guide, Robbie, for them to move on.

With our local guide in Otavalo, we were able to go to the local market safely

With our local guide in Otavalo, we were able to go to the local market safely

Having a local guide helps you stay safely on the tourist path, but also allows you to get OFF the tourist path safely.  If you want to venture into a place where locals live and work and stay safe and have someone who can ease the transition between local and tourist, a local guide can do that.

We had this experience in Istanbul...we were able to stroll in a residential neighborhood and witness an impromptu market for sheep being sold for a national holiday.  Without our guide, we might not have felt safe in the neighborhood, and with our guide, we had the opportunity to take photos of this market because he could ask the people there if taking photographs would be ok.

Impromptu sheep market in Istanbul

Impromptu sheep market in Istanbul

2) Even in places that are "easy" to see and tour on your own, having a local guide adds context to what you are seeing...this was especially important on our most recent trip because so much of the history was recent history and we were touring with people who actually LIVED it. Hearing their thoughts and opinions created a far richer experience than just wandering around and reading about it out of a guide book.

An example of this was our local guide Magdi Pelech in Budapest. One of our interests was learning about life in a communist country, and Magdi had lived in Hungary through the 70's and 80's.  She had stories to share that made the seeing the "sights" far richer than if we had just been touring around using our guide book.  The picture below is what you would see if you visit the Rock Church on Gellert Hill. When we toured with Magdi, we learned that she never knew this church existed! During the Communist regime, the cross was removed, the monks were forced to leave and the entrance was cemented over (you can still see some of the cement around the entrance today) While most of us knew that religion was suppressed as part of communism, hearing about how easily it was literally erased from the consciousness of a local person was very interesting to learn!

Rock Church in Budapest

Rock Church in Budapest

3) We are not retired, time is precious, and we have little time to "get lost" and miss hours of sight seeing time.  Losing oneself in a place is a luxury professional travel writers may have and write poetically about in glossy travel magazines (while someone else is paying for their time and travel!) Most of us are on a shorter holiday with little time to spare.  It's fun for most of us to stumble onto a market or celebration and change touring plans (this happens to us all the time!) but time spent arguing over a transit map, or going in circles for an hour is not the same as whiling away an hour in a cafe, or ditching a tourist site to watch a festival parade.  I like to have a local guide who can maximize our touring time, including finding the perfect place to while away an hour with coffee!

Turkish coffee and tea

Turkish coffee and tea

4) If you want to participate in something unusual (like that festival parade!) or avoid a traffic jam up (due to a strike for instance), or avoid traveling to a closed-for-renovation museum, a local guide is your best bet. They know what is on, what to avoid and how to maximize the tour to your time and interests. For instance, Magdi knew there was a large horse race going on in the City Park on Sunday. While it might have been interesting, it would have impacted our ability to see the other sights in the City Park that day. By going the next day, we avoided the crowds and closures due to the local event. Or if we had decided to go to the local event, having a private guide would allow us to change our itinerary to accommodate that!

5) A local private guide can tailor your tour to your interests and to your pacing in a way that a group tour can't.  Jeff and I like to cover a lot ground, so we like to work with a private guide and not be beholden to bathroom breaks or bus loading for 20 or 50 people. Being a photographer, Jeff often looks for a guide too come out early or stay late when the light is good. If he wants to stop for a longer time to get a shot, the guide is happy to indulge us and we aren't holding up the group. This happened in Istanbul when Jeff wanted to get a shot of the sun setting over the Old Town from the Asian side, we arranged for our guide to stay out late with us to get his shot.

Sun sets on the Suleymaniye Mosque

Sun sets on the Suleymaniye Mosque

A good guide will also pace your tour for your group. When my sister in law needed a little break to sit in Budapest, Magdi would provide a safe, comfortable location to rest for a bit or for her to wait while the other 3 of us moved on to saw another sight nearby and then return for her later.

Taking a much needed break after a long touring day with Magdi Pelech in Budapest

Taking a much needed break after a long touring day with Magdi Pelech in Budapest

6) A certified guide often has professional credentials that allow them to skip the lines or use a special guiding entrance with their clients. We had several instances where our private local guides flashed their credential and went to the head of the line while other tourists had to wait.  It may not feel "fair" to our US sensibilities, but I feel like you do business as business is done in the places where I visit, and in many places having a credentialed guide saved us lots of time in lines!

7) Its not as much of a splurge as you think it might be!!  In many places excellent local guides can be found for $100 dollars a day or less.  In some bigger more expensive tourist areas you might pay $100 per person for a 1/2 day, but generally, it's well worth it to assure that your trip includes the the kinds of experiences you want and smooths the way to have them comfortably and safely!

 Tips for Finding Good Local Guides

Use a good destination specialist travel agent

Finding a great travel agent is whole other topic, but it's very important to find an agent who has been to the place you are going, and/or has local resources where they regularly refer clients. They also have to be willing to listen to YOU and what you want. It's not as easy to do as it seems, there are still a lot of generalist agents (whom I refer to as "let me book that for ya" travel agents- they sell what they sell, and usually only do what you could do yourself on line, and don't offer any expertise or advice about your itinerary and local guides to use.) My advice is don't book with an agent until you've had conversations about your destination with them.  If they don't know more than you can learn from a travel brochure, move on.  What you want to find is a travel agent with expertise and contacts for guiding in the destination you are visiting!  

  • Ask friends who have had great trips about their travel agent, I recommend mine (Travel Beyond) to everyone because I meet a lot of other tourists and they want to know how we managed to have the experiences we've arranged! 
  • Research the businesses of the destination experts on Trip Advisor whose advice you respect 
  • Look for Wendy Perrin's WOW list of destination specialists http://www.wendyperrin.com/wow-list/

Ask friends who have had great guides

Nothing made me happier than recommending Michael Kay's excellent Costa Rica Expeditions to friends traveling to Costa Rica for a 25th anniversary and hearing that they had an amazing al fresco surprise anniversary dinner planned for them by CRE. I knew I had had an excellent experience with them, and I knew they would have great experience too!

Read reviews and trip reports on travel review sites

Read reviews on Travel websites for your destination; take notes about guides mentioned who have consistently good reviews.

Book an Organized Small Group Tour

We've taken some smaller group tours that bundle lodging, travel and guiding.  The best of these include excellent local guiding, and the tour company does all the research to find them! Of course you still need to adapt to the needs and pace of a group, but generally, we've found that there is still a very high level of knowledge and quality in the guides.

Adventures By Disney provided excellent local guides for our small group of like minded travelers in the Galapagos and in Andean Highlands in Ecuador

Adventures By Disney provided excellent local guides for our small group of like minded travelers in the Galapagos and in Andean Highlands in Ecuador

On a really tight budget? Troll social media

There are options that may be short of being professional guides, and that's a risk- if you are paying, its always good to check that the guide has the credentials required by their destination.  Without them, you never know what you will get. But if you really can't pay for professional guiding at all you can at least have a "local" experience.

  • You can find friends of friends who live in your destination and might be willing to show you around.
  • Take advantage of "free walks" offered in some cities.
  • You can also use message boards and forums to find others traveling to the same destination on the same days to share the cost of a private local guide. It can be difficult to tailor these tours to your needs, but if there is a set itinerary and everyone agrees and pays directly to the guide, it can work well.  We made some very good real life friends when we chartered a sailboat with online "friends" we connected with on Cruise Critic.
Bonding on Calabaza in St Thomas during a squall with new friends we met "online" and shared a sailboat charter with. (I promise the sun was out for most of it!)

Bonding on Calabaza in St Thomas during a squall with new friends we met "online" and shared a sailboat charter with. (I promise the sun was out for most of it!)

I'd love to hear your ideas too!  Any tips to share for finding great guides?

"It's Not An Adventure Until Peril Is Involved"

When I travel I do a lot of research. Did I say "a lot"? I may have exaggerated, actually, I research and plan obsessively before a trip.  I usually go on the web to whatever forum has threads related to the trip I'm taking. In the case of this cruise, I spent quite a bit of time on the River Cruise Boards of Cruise Critic. I ask questions...I ask a LOT of questions. Did I say a lot? I meant I ask questions obsessively! 

One of the things I like to learn about is logistics; how to get from here to there, where to stay, what's the procedure for this or that. When I get a sense for the logistics, then I don't have to spend vacation and touring time on them, I can move through the "business of travel" (how to get to the hotel, changing money, where to buy tickets for the metro etc) and enjoy the fun of travel (sitting in a cafe with a glass of wine, biking through the streets, touring a museum) So my sources on Cruise Critic all assured me I could easily walk from the Marriott in Budapest to the dock where the AMAPrima usually docks. I took them at the their word, but apparently I didn't ask quite ENOUGH questions.  

We could see the AMAPrima from our room, it wasn't more than 1/2 mile away. Sure we had 4 bags, but they all rolled and we can manage them easily, and frankly, if we did a little work getting them there; we could use it after all the rich food we'd been enjoying in Budapest! 

So we rolled out of the Marirott with high hopes and our sights set on arriving at the river ship with little trouble, I'd done the research, I'd asked the questions, maybe I was even a little obsessive...I was confident!

 

Jeff leaving the Marriott towing our large roller bags, hopeful, confident with a big wide sidewalk to walk on, just mere steps from the Marriott to the AMAPrima! 

Jeff leaving the Marriott towing our large roller bags, hopeful, confident with a big wide sidewalk to walk on, just mere steps from the Marriott to the AMAPrima! 

Maybe we were a bit over confident, we started out on a big wide perfectly paved boulevard sidewalk, but to make it to the ship we had to cross 4 lanes of highway and tram tracks. No problem really, traffic control was good in Budapest, with pedestrian walks and lights. We found a pedestrian light and crossed over to the river. There was a sidewalk there, maybe not as wide and spacious as the boulevard sidewalk across the way, but certainly passable and we continued along past several small day cruisers.  

 

Then something happened...to channel Shel Silverstein- "Where the Sidewalk Ends".  We were faced with a chasm; a few granite cobble blocks barely wider than the lane marking stripes in the road, with traffic whizzing by just inches away with the merest of guard rails on one side and a set of steep stone stairs leading to the Danube river some 20 feet below on the other side. Imagine a tightrope walk, now imagine it with 4 roller bags, one of which contains all of Jeffs camera gear (and I'll remind you, dear reader, so you also feel the peril, that without this gear, there will be no pictures! Or maybe that's what you have been rooting for all along! ) 

We came to a dead stop "Where the Sidewalk Ends" to assess our options.

1- go back a 1/4 mile, and try to find a way on the surface streets and hope for another crossing closer to the ships dock (ding, ding ding! This was the correct answer!)

Or 

2- carefully shuttle the weighty and unstable rolling bags across the perilous tightrope of cobble stones, taking care not to let go or trip, lest both we and the bags end up in the Danube below. The only way to do this practically is to take one at a time until all four are at the other side where the side walk begins again. (This was the WRONG choice and of course the one we chose!)

 

Lest you think we exaggerate, here is "where the sidewalk ends" and our rather weighty bags wating to cross.

Lest you think we exaggerate, here is "where the sidewalk ends" and our rather weighty bags wating to cross.

Having committed to the perilous journey on uneven cobbles mere inches from either certain death by vehicular homicide or drowning, Jeff starts across with the largest and most unstable bag, (figuring heck, if it's not going to work we may as well figure it out early in the process) Amazingly, he makes it across successfully leaving the bag alone on the other side (this is a travel no no, and we worried for a moment that someone might steal it, but it was abundantly clear that absolutely no one else was foolish enough to take this route on foot, even without 4 roller bags!)

So Jeff returns, carefully picking his way back for another bag. His real worry is sitting in his carryon bag- thousands of dollars worth of camera gear that is not terribly compatible with even a slight mist, much less getting completely submerged in a foreign river and floating out to the Black Sea. (we are pretty sure this was not what AMA had in mind when they advertised the "Black Sea Voyage"!) By this time, I want to speed up the process and had decide that I could manage both carry roll aboard bags if I take one in each hand and walk across the cobble path to the other side (really, won't I just be BETTER balanced with 2 ?) 

Jeff of course is panicked, imagining me and the camera gear tumbling into the Danube (the camera gear is his biggest worry, of course; I can swim). So I start out with his camera bag in my Danube side hand and my carry on bag in the whizzing-truck-street side hand. Jeff's panic escalates, so to reassure him I do a tricky mid transverse "switch" of the bags, balancing over the Danube (thank God for yoga, this works!!) and he seems calmer with the camera gear on the street side, where it's only at risk to be smashed to bits by a passing bus.

 

 

To up the degree of difficulty, every so often one of the cobbles is just ...missing.

To up the degree of difficulty, every so often one of the cobbles is just ...missing.

Luckily, we did make it all the way across with all four bags, none of them made an "unscheduled water landing" and we found the wider side walk, and of course the much easier crossing just a few feet from the dock, where we should have gone in the first place! So if you are going on this journey and want to try walking, the advice is correct, it can be done...just don't follow us! 

Here our our bags, safely secured on the AMA ship awaiting a more relaxing journey! 

Here our our bags, safely secured on the AMA ship awaiting a more relaxing journey! 

 

We have a family travel motto, that's "it's not an adventure until peril is involved". So it's officially an adventure now!